Chef Jamie Kennedy goes whole hog for Wholearth

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Posted 10 months ago

As one of Canada's most celebrated chefs, Jamie Kennedy is renowned not only for the caliber of his cuisine, but also for his wholehearted commitment to environmental issues and local, organic food and agriculture. So, it seemed only natural for Montana Jones to invite him to dinner at a Northumberland County farm.

"It's a farm-field-to-table celebration with Jamie and some of the area's top chefs coming together with local farmers and producers and anyone who loves to eat really good food.

"It'll be a very 'tasteful' day," she jokes. "A chance for everyone to enjoy the bounty of both-- local foods and local culinary talent. This is a unique opportunity to savour these unique flavours right where they all begin -- in the fields, on the soil. That's what it's all about...connecting to and truly appreciating real food."

While the 100-mile-diet is gaining popularity, Jones is aiming for an even finer flavour focus -- zero to 20 miles. The dinner holds special significance as the menu items feature heritage meats and heirloom varieties of produce all raised ecologically and organically on their farm and neighbouring farms.

The cost is $125 per person, less if you're a Wholearth shareholder or member, $65 for seniors.

What can guests expect to eat? That's a surprise. But, the ingredients are home grown... everything from free-ranging heritage poultry, pastured Tamworth pork, heritage Shropshire lamb, maple syrup, Red Fife wheat, goat cheese, heirloom tomatoes and veggies, squashes and more.

"Wholearth is truly inspiring," says chef Jamie Kennedy, "It's a beautiful farm. Montana strikes me as being such a firebrand. So passionate and energetic and eager to take on the awesome challenge of running a farm the way in which she runs hers."

So far, the impressive roster of chefs includes Jamie Kennedy of Gilead, the Gardiner, Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar, Hank's Cafe in Toronto; Brad Watt of Rare Grill House in Peterborough; Lisa Dixon of Black Honey Cafe in Peterborough, Evan Podd of The Old Bridge Inn Restaurant in Youngs Point and John Devlin of The Northside in Cobourg.

Wholearth Farmstudio is dedicated to conserving rare heritage breeds of livestock and tends Canada's largest registered flock of purebred Shropshire sheep.

All animals on the farm are raised with care the old-fashioned way, free to roam outdoors naturally. Jones has played a significant role in increasing breed numbers since the national population fell below 200.

Slowly, the breed is regaining popularity for their hardiness, longevity and exceptional taste. At the Heritage Harvest Feast, the delicate flavour of Shropshire lamb will be in the creative care of Chef Brad Watt of Rare Grill House in Peterborough -- but he's keeping any more dish details a secret.

Roaming and rooting happily in the west pasture at Wholearth are the Tamworth pigs, some of which will make their way onto the feast menu. The Tamworth was recently inducted onto the Slow Food Arc of Taste list because of its exceptional flavour, and the breed is an increasingly popular selection on gourmet restaurant menus.

Jamie Kennedy is going whole hog preparing the pork for the feast. He uses only heritage Tamworth or Berkshire pork for one of his own specialties -- a down-home, full rack of braised-then-barbecued ribs.

"I love them," he says. "You have to use both hands and gnaw on the bones. It's kind of primal."

Spare or back ribs?

"It doesn't matter," he says. "They just have to be pork."

He's not letting on if the feast will include his special ribs, only that it will be Tamworthy.

Wholearth Farmstudio also raises free-ranging Bourbon Red turkeys, Jersey Giant chickens, Dark Cornish game birds which all happen to be rare heritage breeds on the Slow Food list. So, if you've never tasted one, now is your chance.

"The taste of these heritage breeds are full, rich, deep, earthy... incredible," Jones says. "There is an old-fashioned flavour and succulence like nothing you'll ever find in a supermarket. Especially in the artful hands of these chefs. They believe in fresh, sustain-ably raised ingredients."

Last year, Kennedy bought a few dozen heritage Jersey Giants chickens from Jones to take home to his Prince Edward County farm.

"They're great," he says. "I make ice cream and mayonnaise with the eggs -- a new deep orange tint for both, emanating the good vibes of free-run hens."

A few of the young birds turned out to be cockerels, and he really needed only one for the flock. What of the others?

"They made an exceptional coq au vin."

"I'm elated these fine chefs are so keen to do this feast. Maybe it's a mutual admiration thing," Jones says.

"We feel so honoured to have them and they seem flattered they were asked. We share a philosophy and their enthusiasm is pure joy. They truly appreciate the farmers and we appreciate that respect. Look at the art they create from our hard work. I know everyone at the table that day will taste a resounding thanks on their dinner plate."

Author Margaret Webb looks forward to her place setting at the Wholearth Heritage Harvest Feast table. She'll be right at home reading from her book Apples to Oysters: A Food Lover's Tour of Canadian Farms.

"My book takes readers on 12 food adventures, visiting a new wave of farmers across Canada who are putting the taste and quality back into the foods we eat. I write about farmers who farm like chefs -- with passion, on an intimate scale, and with love." Webb says.

"You are living my dream," she told Jones. "Just don't have me read too close to dinner-time and compete with the meal. The food will win."

The sweet skills of pastry chef Lisa Dixon will round out the delectable feast. She's looking forward to the fall food celebration even though Thanksgiving is one of her busiest, and "most sacred" times.

"I'm involved because I know it's right," Dixon says. "I work with real food for so many reasons. I know the people who grow it, I know the people who eat it and I know it will taste real. It's a responsibility I live with constantly -- a way of being responsible for my actions."

Dixon will also be responsible for a heavenly pumpkin desert or two at this festive fall gathering.

"It's such a perfect way for farmers and food lovers to connect and share in the harvest," Jones says. "As much as I love cooking at Thanksgiving, I'll happily sit this one out and be treated by these amazing chefs. They really will be 'outstanding in the field'. I mean, when is the last time Jamie Kennedy offered to make dinner for you in your back forty?"

To reserve your seats at the Wholearth Heritage Harvest Feast sign up on their website at www.wholearth.com or call 705-696-2556.